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The Venetian Bacari Tour
Eating cicheti is a social activity, and together with spritz (a powerful mixture of white wine, Campari and soda water), they are characterized by the spirited and ideas in these lively simple and comfortable establishments.
Take “Vaporetto” boat line 1 from the Santa Maria del Giglio or Accademia stop to San Silvestro. From there, walk along Ruga Rialto, and you will soon reach Do Mori, a Traditional bacaro located past a wide arcade or “sotoportego” opening on your left.
Do Mori offers a wide selection of cicheti, including Venetian and Veneto classics and tasty bar-counter snacks prepared just in front of your eyes or coming piping hot straight from the frying pan, to be savoured with a glass of wine.
This is the perfect prelude to a meal or the starting point for a ful-fledged bacaro crawl.
From Do Mori continue in the direction of campo San Giacometto, the picturesque setting of Bancogiro. This small wine bar – restaurant just 2 minutes away from the Rialto Bridge could not be more down-home Venetian, and yet offer a small but creative range of lunch and dinner dishes.
From San Giacometto, cross the Rialto Bridge and then the square called San Bortolomio. Go through the tunnel-like sotoportego and turn right immediately into a diminutive calle.
At the next corner you will find Alla Botte, another favorite spot for cicheti that are the trademark food of this bacaro.
The last stop of this spirituous as well as spiritual tour of the Venetian bacari is Alla Vedova on Strada Nuova.
The official name is Osteria Ca’ D’ Oro, but Venetians continue to refer to it as Alla Vedova, the widow’s place. It is one of the oldest bacari in the city and offers a wide array of tasty dishes, including classics like batter-fried baby artichokes called castraure, fried stuffed olives, baccalà (codfish) with polenta, sliced ham and salami, and tiny octopus (folpetti) in tomatoes sauce or simply boiled and dressed with celery and fresh herbs and other vegetables.
But La Vedova’s reputation rests on its polpette, spicy fried meatballs. From here you can walk back to the Design Hotel Ca’ Pisani, or if you don’t trust your legs, take vaporetto n 1 from the Ca’ D’ Oro stop, direction Lido.
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